Your problem with the big OOF zone in front of the subject and my additional problem of missed initial focus can both be solved by placing a small, easily focused object well in front of, and as far to the side of, the main subject as possible within the framing. The stack in this example actually extends all the way to sharp focus on the felt sheet at the back. In this image, shot in a table-top tent, the OOF area at the front is not really an issue because it is a featureless red felt sheet, but the problem itself is highlighted by the fact that the camera began the stack-set very slightly behind the tip of the scuba-diver's head - the point that the AF system chose as the initial focus. Here is an example that makes the problem even more obvious. Your stacked image clearly illustrates the single big drawback of the built-in stacking focus mode of the z cameras - the large, unsightly, out-of-focus zone at the front caused by the camera beginning the stack at it's initial point of focus on the main subject. This kind of photography involves hundreds (thousands?) of shutter activations to get a single finished photo so I'm using my trusty old D800 until the shutter gives out.
Helicon remote model trial#
The workflow back and forth between Helicon Focus and Helicon Remote is pretty seamless, which is good because there is often a lot of trial and error to get the camera, lighting, and rail settings just right.Īlthough Helicon Remote lists the Z6 as a supported camera, I haven't yet given it a test. After all the shots have been taken, you can go directly into Helicon Focus to assemble the final image. And if you have a Stackshot, but don't have a computer running Helicon Remote, you can use the Stackshot to control the camera via the shutter cable.ģ. And if you don't have a Stackshot and you do have an AF lens, you can have Helicon Remote control the focus of the lens for each shot rather than the in-camera focus shift.
Helicon Remote displays the LiveView so you can easily set start/end distances, the increment between shots, etc. Both the Stackshot and the camera are tethered to the computer via USB. Helicon Remote to control the Stackshot and the camera. Stackshot automated macro rail for focus stackingĢ. Also, some macro lenses, like my Venus Optics Laowa 25mm f/2.8 2.5-5X Ultra-Macro do not have autofocus so can't be used with Z6 focus shift.įor most of my close-up work, I use the following:ġ. For more exacting work, the use of a macro rail to make incremental changes in the distance between the camera and subject can give better results than in-camera focus bracketing like "focus shift" in the Z-series. The answer has much to do with your subject matter and shooting conditions.
I had to copy and paste metadata back into the above JPG (using IMatch 2019) and reload it here to preserve shooting information.Īre there other options I should be looking at? Ps - I find Photoshop's deletion of metadata when exporting images annoying.
Helicon remote model android#
Given that I already have and use qDSLRDashboard with my Android Pixel 2, is there any reason to get Helicon Focus Remote? Are there other options I should be looking at? When I went to their website, I saw that that they also offer Remote, a tethered shooting solution. It was, as expected, somewhat slow with a 49 image NEF stack, and reasonably good despite a few oddities that might have been due to my Z6 stacking settings (probably should have included more 'far' shots that I deleted before further processing and a few closer shots.įrom my reading, it appears that Helicon Focus would be a better tool for macro focus stacking. I used Photoshop CC 2019 for my first test, using minimal user input/control. Given that it's currently 12 F/-11 C here, I decided to shoot indoors (just a test, not a serious composition!). It seems very useful despite some learning curve about setting optimal stack parameters. I finally got around to initial testing of focus stacking with my Z6.
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